solder won't come out of hole

[Tom Del Rosso]

For the past couple of hours I've been trying to get the solder out of a
hole. It's a mobo cap, and the other hole sucked right out. It's like an
obstruction. The solder melts with difficulty, but even then I can't get a
dental pick as deep as in the other hole. The cap pulled out easily on both
leads.


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[Jeff Liebermann]

On Tue, 17 Jul 2012 15:53:01 -0400, "Tom Del Rosso"
<td_03@verizon.net.invalid> wrote:


Probably a multilayer board with a big ground [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] acting as a heat
sink.

Find some compressed air and a cardboard box.
Get the solder melted with a soldering iron. Use flux.
Point the back side of the PCB towards the cardboard box.
Heat the back side of the PCB with the soldering iron.
Apply the compressed air nozzle to the circuit side.
Remove the soldering iron and very quickly blow some compressed air
through the hold. The dross should land inside the cardboard box.

Also, pointed dental picks don't work well because there's too much
room for the solder in the hole with the tapered tip. Use a paper
clip or stainless piece of wire instead.

--
Jeff Liebermann [Only registered and activated users can see links. ]
150 Felker St #D [Only registered and activated users can see links. ]
Santa Cruz CA 95060 [Only registered and activated users can see links. ]
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

[Cydrome Leader]

Tom Del Rosso <td_03@verizon.net.invalid> wrote:

add fress solder and try again.

burned up and oxidized tips and traces don't conduct heat well and won't
melt solder in a thick or multilayer board. get some solder wick, the
stuff is magic for things like this.

[Ian Field]

"Tom Del Rosso" wrote in message news:ju4g3k$l19$1@dont-email.me...


For the past couple of hours I've been trying to get the solder out of a
hole. It's a mobo cap, and the other hole sucked right out. It's like an
obstruction. The solder melts with difficulty, but even then I can't get a
dental pick as deep as in the other hole. The cap pulled out easily on both
leads.

***Start by flowing in some 60/40 - at least if you can attack it at a lower
temperature, it'll take longer to cook the copper/pcb bond.

***If you're using a solder sucker, putting the nozzle off center on the
hole can sometimes draw molten solder out the top of a blocked hole - you
need to do both sides before attacking the blockage.

***Resist the temptation to force a pin through while heating the solder -
almost always takes the through plating with it.

[news@jecarter.us]

On Tue, 17 Jul 2012 15:53:01 -0400, "Tom Del Rosso"
<td_03@verizon.net.invalid> wrote:


A Solder Sucker is much better than a dental pick (I've used both).
The solder sucker can be used on one side of the board while the iron
is still on the pad on the other side of the board, which is when the
solder is at its most liquid state.

[mike]

On 7/17/2012 1:05 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
You left out the MOST IMPORTANT first step!!!
Wear eye protection!!!
Compressed air and molten solder is a recipe for blindness!!

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Tue, 17 Jul 2012 15:37:31 -0700, mike <spamme9@gmail.com> wrote:


Thanks. Y'er right. Goggles or a face mask are a must.

Back in the days when it was worth the effort, I used to remove
components from a PCB by clamping one end of the board in a [Only registered and activated users can see links. ]
and heating the solder side with a propane torch. When the solder was
good and hot, I would pull the board back and let go. The components
and the solder would go flying in the opposite direction into a
cardboard box. I always wore a face mask, but still managed to burn
myself in obscure places.

--
Jeff Liebermann [Only registered and activated users can see links. ]
150 Felker St #D [Only registered and activated users can see links. ]
Santa Cruz CA 95060 [Only registered and activated users can see links. ]
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

[Tom Del Rosso]

Cydrome Leader wrote:

Thanks all.

I got it by applying an iron to one side and the vacuum to the other side.
The Pace desolder station doesn't get hot enough.

I was also using lead-free when I added solder to help it melt. 60/40
worked better.

What's the word on using 60/40 on the replacement?


--

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[mike]

On 7/17/2012 9:52 PM, Tom Del Rosso wrote:

Depending on where you live, it's probably illegal.
But you'd never be prosecuted, because nobody would know...
unless you blabbed it to a few hundred million people on the internet.
;-)

[Ian Field]

"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
news:qnrb08hodnmfu6v4v071fd5sp5mu6nj57m@4ax.com...

On Tue, 17 Jul 2012 15:37:31 -0700, mike <spamme9@gmail.com> wrote:


Thanks. Y'er right. Goggles or a face mask are a must.

Back in the days when it was worth the effort, I used to remove
components from a PCB by clamping one end of the board in a [Only registered and activated users can see links. ]
and heating the solder side with a propane torch. When the solder was
good and hot, I would pull the board back and let go. The components
and the solder would go flying in the opposite direction into a
cardboard box.


***Hot air (electric paint stripper) gun and a stiff paintbush - perfect for
harvesting SMD parts.