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1st Seed Catalog of the season

villon — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 17:19:59 GMT

"Dan L." wrote in message
news:doesnotwork-D63AFD.17513018112009@mail.eternal-september.org...

The seed companies know that the early bird gets the worm...but it's a fact
that the second mouse gets the cheese!

Potato experiment.

rossr35253@forteinc.com — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 21:43:14 GMT

Wildbilly wrote:

Although, you've cited a valuable resource for Gulf Coast
gardening, but one which must be taken with a grain of salt. Those folks
do not garden year-to-year or routinely buy gardening supplies. They
also are in Gainesville, � 90 miles distant to my locale. "Certified
seed can be obtained from a number of reputable garden supply stores" is
a bit inexact. For example, my experience in actually locating black
grapes that were purported by edis to be widely available makes me a
little skeptical: The only nursery in the state that I found to be
actually _selling_ the desired variety is near to, well, Gainesville and
it does not ship. A 200-mile 'round trip for grape vines, which last a
lifetime, is one thing but for potatoes, I don't know.... I'm in my 60's
and don't remember ever actually seeing seed potatoes for sale in a
garden supply store; not even in the bulk-seed "feed 'n seed" where I
frequently shop for seeds, alfalfa, straw and the like. However, the
1960's did take their toll on my memory;-) I'm in a part of Florida in
which cattle and citrus were the dominant agriculture. "Truck" farming
never got much of a toe-hold and, as a result, a distribution system
never developed. Nowadays, the major industry is burying dead old
Yankees (and, of course, re-selling their houses) and not enough of
those waiting to die garden to support much in the way of gardening
supplies. Truth is, I've not made much effort to locate seed potatoes
because DW&my staple preference is russet Burbank, which do not do too
well in FL. For home-grown, I normally buy organic potatoes from
"natural" or "health" food stores because they are not likely to have
been treated to prevent sprouting. Neither are they treated to prevent
fungii but that has (knock on wood) never been a problem in my sandy
soil, even though, winters here can be very wet.
That seems a good suggestion and one which I might try because it
would offer me some selectivity among varieties instead of, "I don't
know, they're just 'red' (or 'white') potatoes". Perhaps I can request
late-season shipping if I order early.
--
the Balvenieman
Running on single malt in U.S.A.
Peninsular Florida,
USDA zone 9b

Potatoes

Wildbilly — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 02:45:52 GMT

On Wed, 18 Nov 2009 09:02:39 -0800, Wildbilly
wrote:

Right down the road from ya', Billy. Looks like a good source for
sampling, eating, and perhaps using for seed crop. Damn, wished I
lived as close!!

http://www.farmtrails.org/ohtommyboy...x.html#contact

Thanks for the Cornell links.

Charlie

--
I find that a real gardener is not a man who cultivates flowers; he is
a man who cultivates the soil. He is a creature who digs himself into
the earth and leaves the sight of what is on it to us gaping
good-for-nothings. He lives buried in the ground. He builds his
monument in a heap of compost. If he came into the Garden of Eden, he
would sniff excitedly and say: "Good Lord, what humus!" �Karel Capek

fixing potting soil

Dwight Lassiter — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 23:02:24 GMT

In article
<0b47e930-97e5-4390-88b7-afdc3c48f37f@a21g2000yqc.googlegroups.com>,
Dwight Lassiter wrote:

Can't be that bad? If you have worms, it ain't bad. The organic material
in the potting soil will eventually breakdown into CO2 and H2O, and need
to be replaced.

Before you water your plants, stick your finger into the potting soil,
about an inch deep, to check for dampness. If it is damp, don't water.

If you plant is wilting in the Sun anyway, you may have to rig up some
afternoon shade for it. Given time, organic material, and the worms will
correct any problem soil problems that you may be experiencing.
Certainly, don't add any chunks of wood that won't breakdown in a
season. They will just take up space that the roots could use.

Last thought, small pieces of charcoal (dime size or smaller) to 10%-20%
(or more) of potting soil will increase fecundity of the soil. The combo
is called, "Terra Preta".
http://e-terrapretarooftopexp.blogspot.com/
This site refers to red soil, which I presume is laterite soil, in which
it is notoriously difficult to grow crops.
--
�When you give food to the poor, they call you a saint. When you ask why the poor have no food, they call you a communist.�
-Archbishop Helder Camara

http://tinyurl.com/o63ruj
http://countercurrents.org/roberts020709.htm

Help: are these really persimmons?

brafield — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 22:20:45 GMT

"brafield" wrote in message
news:f50beaf0-2d94-4b31-9b1b-df740270cc60@x6g2000prc.googlegroups.com...

The fruit will last for weeks before cooking so there was probably no need
to just throw it out.

Regarding smart-stax GE corn in general and specifically in Canada

phorbin — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 13:53:15 GMT

On Sun, 15 Nov 2009 13:11:38 -0500, phorbin
wrote:

Yep. My goal is to have the response kit be able to extend into the
future, that the path/paths I am choosing will benefit my children and
grands.

Yep. I'm trying to focus on the present and make the most of the time
before it goes really bad, developing skill sets, acquiring durable
goods and things that are useful now and will have more use in a more
difficult world. I have little hope for the future and seldom try and
convince anyone anymore, just whistling in tune with the choir.
(except for the occasional times that I forget myself and find myself
embroiled in argument with the great unwashed ;-) Thankfully there
are brothers to give me a good headslap in such times!)

Best to you and yours

Charlie

"As for butter versus margarine, I trust cows more than chemists."
~Joan Gussow

Attn: Steve, Billy and others

Charlie — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 03:12:09 GMT

In article ,
Steve wrote:

And a well done.
--
"When you give food to the poor, they call you a saint. When you ask why the poor have no food, they call you a communist."
-Archbishop Helder Camara

http://tinyurl.com/o63ruj
http://countercurrents.org/roberts020709.htm

A moment for Veterans Day

gunner — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 16:14:48 GMT

"William Rose" wrote in message
news:wildbilly-9BD3B6.18490614112009@c-61-68-245-199.per.connect.net.au...

I've noticed the posts always get longer when you Bros lie
just before you create the diversions.

More political BS snipped.

Chives Going To Seed?

Coffee's For Closers — Tue, 10 Nov 2009 23:12:23 GMT

"Coffee's For Closers" wrote in message
news:MPG.2563931f540b649b9896e4@news.eternal-september.org...

Normal chives or garlic chives? Garlic chives produce masses of viable seed
and you'll find baby chives coming up near the parent plant next year.

With normal chives, I've never managed to get them to produce viable seed
and just increase them by dividing every few years.

You don't have to do anything to get them through the flowering stage - they
do that for themselves.

?? seed potatoes vendor

Derald — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 14:44:12 GMT

Anybody have a line on a U.S.A. seed potato vendor who has stock
for autumn delivery? An online vendor would be frosting on the cake.
Even if I'm too late for this year, I'd like a reference to contact for
next year. December is traditional potato planting time in this part of
Florida; unfortunately, seedsmen in northern climes all seem to think
theirs is the only climate ;-) and are all sold out long before I'm
ready. In fairness, I do know that seed growers must operate within the
climate in which they're located.
In past years, I've planted "grocery store" potatoes with good
results, despite the advice of experts. I find that potatoes from
so-called "health" food stores are more likely to sprout profusely
because they've not been treated. In future, though, I'd like to be able
to plant known varieties instead of, "those nice little red potatoes I
got at '"Murphy's'".
--
TIA,
the Balvenieman
Running on single malt in U.S.A.
Peninsular Florida,
USDA zone 9b

Bad potato crop

spes123 — Sun, 08 Nov 2009 12:27:31 GMT

"Omelet" wrote in message
news:ompomelet-598F6F.13541709112009@news-wc.giganews.com...

Sounds like Keel slugs.

If the spuds are only slug damaged, no disease, you can safely compost
them.

here are some slug tips:

http://www.nvsuk.org.uk/medwyn-willi...-show-300.html

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7427.html

http://www.ghorganics.com/page13.html

adding sand to clay is not a good solution in most cases. a fine bark
works much better here in the PNW. More here:
http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda%2...dments%202.pdf

If you are concerned about your soil, a 13$ good soil analysis would save a
whole lot of guessing and unnecessary work to correct a problem you might
not have.

Garden Lime

Mr McGregor — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 17:26:04 GMT

How refreshing to hear a voice of reason and clarity.

"David Hare-Scott" wrote in message
news:hd4pjv$85o$1@news.albasani.net...

Fruit trees

julie — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:15:42 GMT

On 11/3/2009 4:15 PM, julie wrote:

I have a 'Robertson' navel orange that is a semi-dwarf. If yours is not
semi-dwarf, there might be little you can do to constrain its growth
without harming the tree. Citrus is not pruned for fruit production.
It's pruned to remove dead growth, crossing branches, and branches that
sweep the ground. You can also prune for aesthetics. Just be careful
that enough foliage remains to complete shade the trunk; it's necessary
to protect the trunk's bark from sunburn.

Note that citrus is self-thinning; you don't have to remove any immature
fruit to increase the size of the remaining fruit. Also ripe citrus
will remain fresh on the tree for a few months. You might actually get
oranges this coming year.

Don't forget to feed the tree with a commercial citrus food that
contains zinc; zinc is vital to citrus. I feed my citrus monthly from
March to September; I need to do frequent light feedings because they
are in large pots from which nutrients leach and drain away. In the
ground, feeding every 2-3 months should be sufficient; stop feeding
about 60 days before frost might be expected and resume about 30 days
before the last frost is expected.

Your nectarine requires special pruning during the first two growing
seasons. If it is a whip (a single shoot), cut it back to about two
feet above the graft to promote branching. If it has branches, remove
any leader. The point is to promote 3-4 main limbs growing away from
the center; thus, cut the leader low enough to eliminate excess side
branches. Where they join the trunk, the crotches should be U-shaped
and not V-shaped. (This latter is good for most trees.)

A mature nectarine can be pruned the same way as a peach; it's merely a
fuzz-less peach. Your nectarine should be severely pruned each winter.
Remove about 2/3 of all new growth, keeping some new growth and
removing an equivalent amount of old growth. Also, each remaining new
branch should be tipped to prevent it from growing longer. Finally,
eliminate any V-shaped crotches; they will be weak and might split. I
remove all tall growth from my peach, keeping the tree low enough that I
can pick all the fruit without a ladder.

You probably won't get nectarines for 2-3 years; you might have to wait
that long for peaches, depending on how mature a plant your 'Babcock'
was when you planted it. (It's hard to tell with dwarf and semi-dwarf
trees.) Peaches and nectarines need to be thinned. When the fruit is
still not larger than an almond in the shell, I remove half or more of
the immature peaches from my tree. I try to leave about a foot of
branch between peaches. This will cause the remaining fruit to grow
larger, but their pits will not be any larger. Thus, I can actually get
more usable fruit by thinning. Thinning also prevents the weight of
ripening fruit from breaking branches.

I only feed my peach once, in the spring as it starts to bloom; I use a
house-brand lawn food. I spray my peach with copper sulfate right after
pruning and again when flower buds start to swell; this prevents
shot-hole and leaf-curl fungus diseases, which also affect nectarines.
(I have also seen shot-hole but not leaf-curl on ornamental cherries.)

I have no experience with cherries or pomegranates, so I can't advise
you about those.

--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean
Sunset Zone: 21 -- interior Santa Monica Mountains with some ocean
influence (USDA 10a, very close to Sunset Zone 19)
Gardening diary at

I wish you like it

savy — Mon, 02 Nov 2009 12:12:16 GMT

phorbin;868557]In article et73s6-3dl1.ln1@news.infowest.com,
oldfart@depends.com
says...-

"savy" saving11@live.com wrote in message

news:25724ea5-a418-4b05-a459-3e106dd95742@d10g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...-
I saw this site and I like it so much, I'd like to see it to learn a
lot of things
http://zzrz.-

Learn English first, bub. I don't agree with a religion that sends
ten year
olds to the market with ten pounds of explosives to get a loaf of
bread. -

And any site that throws up a dialogue box with the words "excuse me"
in
it first suggests an exploit attempt.

my question is "What does this site have to do with gardening?"
answer: "nothing what so ever", geeshh get over yourself.
sockiescat.

--
sockiescat

Garlic "seeds"

geowicz — Sat, 24 Oct 2009 10:55:44 GMT

Darrell Ulm wrote:

Shameless self-promotion: My personal web page, in the .sig below, has the
basics.
Garlic is a heavy feeder and a lousy competitor, so give it your best soil,
richest compost, and even if everything else goes to wrack and ruin, keep
it well weeded, and if it's dry, watered.
I grow mine in a 4' wide bed 6 inches each way (8 inches for a couple of
large varieties).

Hope this helps,

Gary Woods AKA K2AHC- PGP key on request, or at home.earthlink.net/~garygarlic
Zone 5/6 in upstate New York, 1420' elevation. NY WO G