Creating Perennial Borders

Creating Perennial Borders.

Creating Perennial Borders

We have a great many classes of perennials, some of which are so wild and aggressive that they should only be planted among the shrubbery. We have others which are very dainty and tender and whose growth must be care- fully watched and their special needs for protection attended to.

We must scatter plants through the length of the border which will bloom throughout the season. We should, furthermore, attempt to get good color combinations. We should know the heights to which the plants grow, otherwise the taller ones may be in front and the more dwarf ones in the background. It is always well in an informal border to let the back line be somewhat broken; plants at some points are a little shorter.

Situating Perennial Borders

Choose a southern exposure where it is not in too close proximity to large tree roots. It should be somewhat protected from the direct force of the wind, otherwise fragile flowers will not be very lasting. Most perennials enjoy a medium light loam.

Preparing Perennial Soil for Borders

As with annuals, but perhaps more so with perennials, the soil for borders should be deeply and thoroughly prepared; two to three feet is none too deep, for plants must remain in one place for a long time. In the case of Peonies it is detrimental to move them often and it is frequently two years, and in some soils three years, after moving a Peony plant before it blooms normally.

Another garden where the flower borders are brought close to the house. Here, too, are ornamental architectural objects, and brick path in herring-bone pattern.

Manure and a complete fertilizer should be well worked into a new border. All perennial borders profit by an application of bonemeal, hardwood ashes and sheep manure every year or two. Perennial borders which have been flowering year after year and to which much manure has continually been added, become somewhat sour and an application of slaked lime every two years is very beneficial. Many of the perennials do not attain their proper maturity before the Winter when they have been excessively fertilized and forced into continued sappy growth. They then suffer from cold. All soils for borders should be loose, so that they can be easily kept stirred. Soils are made light or loosened by manure, sand or coal ashes. Clay soils surely need some such treatment.

Planting a Perennial Border

Now that the questions of fertilizers and soils are settled, let us consider the planting. A rule is given in setting perennials to put them a trifle closer than half their height. For example, Columbine grows two feet tall; for good clumps place young plants one foot apart. This rule will not apply in subsequent years, for as the plants grow they must be thinned out. A good, liberal planting is always the better plan. Plants should usually be set a little deeper than they were when growing in the nursery. Care must be exercised not to bury them too deeply, however, for some perennials, as Violets and German Iris, are almost surface creepers. In placing the perennials in the soil, spread the roots symmetrically; do not wad them and cram them into a little hole.

Spring Planting Perennials Borders

The planting of perennials is best done in Spring when the tops are just about to start into growth. There is danger in planting when the soil is too moist, especially clayey soils, which when they become caked are difficult to pulverize during the whole growing season.

Autumn Planting Perennials Borders

In the Autumn most perennials can be transplanted successfully if their roots get established before cold weather. If perennials must be moved in full growth they should always be cut back; especially is this the case when much soil is removed from the roots. All newly set stock should be watered. There is usually less work in Autumn than in the Spring, hence this season is often preferred for planting.

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