Daffodils

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DAFFODILS AND OTHER NARCISSI

' Shrine of colour ! Golden sweetness, Angel of the Spring that cries Other radiance to arise. Little poem of completeness From the mind of God, Who knows How to fashion sphere and rose. - HON. ELEANORE NORTON.

Scientists classify Narcissi in many divisions, subdivisions, as well as species, which enable the kinships, shapes, habits, etc., to be well understood, and the positions of new-comers clearly defined. But the amateur gardener need not trouble to learn all these terms, unless anxious to take up the culture of the Narcissus family as a special hobby. It will suffice to grow, and love, a few beauties belonging to the differing classes.

The first Narcissus thought of in Narcissus season is the Polyanthus, or Bunch-flowered, no doubt, which brings exquisite scent to cheer us during winter, exquisite petals to predict the advent of many more spring flowers. The gardener who brings the following to perfection, in beds, borders, pots, boxes or bowls, will have every reason to congratulate himself on an easy triumph. For culture is quite simple.

THE BEST POLYANTHUS NARCISSI

PAPER WHITE ' SNOWFLAKE '

GRAND MONARQUE. White, with

IMPROVED. Pure white, fine citron cup.

For forcing.

HER MAJESTY. White, with

GRAND SOLEIL D'OR. Yellow, orange cup.

With orange cup. Forces capitally.

JAUNE SUPREME. Bright yellow.

APOLLO. Apricot-gold and

EARLY DOUBLE ROMAN. Double yellow.

White. Another good variety WHITE PEARL.

White, with for forcing. Very pale lemon cup.

These can all be grown as though they were Oriental Hyacinths, so other pages from this site should be consulted for details. But potting can be begun as early as August, which should result in November bloom. Few gar- dens can boast of beds, or long border lines of these Bunch Narcissi, yet they flourish in all but the coldest places, and it is easy to protect them a trifle by laying a little straw, or bracken fern, lightly among them as the growth begins. They will die off if there is rank manure in the soil. As they flower in March and April naturally, rock-cresses (Aubrietias) are their best carpets or edgings, offering shades of blue-lavender, deep purple, crimson, heliotrope, pale rose, etc., etc.

There are many other varieties of Polyanthus Narcissi, but those recommended are representative of the colourings.

In considering other species of Narcissus, including the single and double Trumpet Daffodils, we may reckon that small bulbs should be covered with soil, out of doors, to a depth of 3 inches, larger ones to a depth of 4 inches, and still bigger ones to a depth of 5 inches. These directions apply, of course, to bulbs that are large or little according to nature, not according to age. And in gardens of very sandy or gravelly soil slightly deeper planting is often advisable.

Juvenile bulbs, either cheap youngsters sent out on purpose, or offset bulbs from the home collection, can be planted as deep as full-grown ones of their race would be, however, without injury, and left undis- turbed in borders, or banks, to attain maturity. But they must not be expected to flower until then.

Bulbs should be only just soil-covered when potted, or the pointed ' noses ' may just show : this being one way in which the culture differs from that of the Hyacinth. Culture in bowls may be identical for the two bulbous plants. Trumpet Daffodils that can be pot or bowl grown, either slowly or gently forced, include these.

DAFFODILS FOR EARLY BLOOM

NARCISSUS PSEUDO-NARCISSUS.

NARCISSUS P.N. GOLDEN SPUR.

The old English Daffodil. Deep gold. Large.

NARCISSUS P.N. OBVALLARIS.

NARCISSUS P.N. PRINCEPS.

The Tenby Daffodil. Sulphur yellow and pale lemon.

NARCISSUS P.N. SINGLE VAN NARCISSUS P.N. EMPEROR.

SIGN. Large. Primrose and yellow. Fine.

NARCISSUS P.N. HORSFIELDII. White and yellow.

NARCISSUS P.N. VAN W AVEREN'S GIANT. Golden.

NARCISSUS P.N. P. R. BARR. Two shades of gold.

NARCISSUS P.N. WEARDALE PERFECTION. White and lemon.

NARCISSUS P.N. MADAME DE GRAAF. White and large.

NARCISSUS P.N. KING ALFRED. Giant yellow.

NARCISSUS P.N. PRINCESS IDA. White and cream. Erect grower.

NARCISSUS P.N. HENRY IRVING. Yellow.

NARCISSUS P.N. MONARCH. Gold.

INCOMPARABILIS PLENUS. Dou- ble yellow.

VAN SIGN. A finer double yellow.

SULPHUR PHOENIX. Sulphur and white.

ORANGE PHCENIX. Orange and yellow.

ALICE KNIGHTS. New variety. Nearly white.

THE DOCTOR. Pale and deep gold.

When these have been dealt with, in sending an order to a bulb merchant, let the lovely Star-shaped ' Stella/ or Chalice-cupped Daffodils be chosen among. The scientific, or ' advance ' title is Narcissus Leedsii, and there are now great numbers of varieties. As we all know, the ' Stella ' Narcissi in our mixed borders are often in bloom even before the single Daffodils ; they can be gently forced, too.

VARIETIES OF STELLA. The good old free bloomer.

STELLA SUPERB A. An improved kind.

WILL SCARLET. Ivory, orange, red edged, but about two shil- lings a bulb.

LUCIFER. White and orange-red.

SIR WATKIN. Primrose and gold.

STELLA' NARCISSI.

MINNIE HUME. Lemon-white.

LULWORTH BEAUTY. White, with orange-vermilion cup.

GLORIA MUNDI. Gold and orange.

DUCHESS OF WESTMINSTER. White, lemon, orange tinted.

WHITWELL. White and deep gold.

BLAZING STAR. Deep yellow, and red.

Of these the Duchess of Westminster, and the old form of Stella, are, I consider, the best for the amateur gardener to try to force a little.

Other very beautiful Short-cupped or Star Narcissi are :

ADONIA. Primrose and orange. SUNRISE. White, lemon, and

ELGIVA. Lemon and apricot. Orange-scarlet.

FIREBRAND. Creamy-white and WHITE STAR White and

red. Lemon. Beautiful but expensive.

INCOGNITA. White with yellow Cup.

Of course, it ought to be always recollected that hand-lights, or cloches, dropped over patches of Daffodils and other Narcissi, in beds and borders, will hasten the opening of their buds out of doors.

We have arrived now at the popular Pheasant's Eye, or Poet's Narcissus, possibly to discover, with surprise, that our clever florists have done wonders with it. But, first, let us realize that we must never try to force the double kind, and shall probably come to grief with any attempt with the single.

However, while reserving Narcissus poeticus, and Narcissus alba plena odorata, for beautifying the pleasure grounds, we may make use of Poeticus ornatus pretty much as we like. It is white, sweet- scented, and has a dainty scarlet edging to its cup. There are ' improved ' varieties now but the man or woman must be very captious who desires this exquisite Narcissus to possess daughters fairer than herself.

Blending Narctesi bulbs with Hyacinth and Tulip bulbs (mid-season Tulips answer best) is a means of gaining noteworthy beds, and tub or pot ornaments.

Maybe Daffodils and other Narcissi never look quite so lovely as when filling glades in shrubberies, yet who can decide ? The Poet's Narcissus is a dream when dotted liberally over a rock garden, when congregated in avenue-lines on either side of a broad gravel walk, when massed in window-boxes, when seen in wide rings in round beds.

Daffodils thrive under deciduous tall trees, are especially charming close by silver birches or almonds, and do not resent the close companionship of evergreen shrubs. They will even live and blossom, year after year, close to an ivied wall, seemingly uninjured by that ' poisonous ' drip from ivy leaves that has murdered many millions of other flowers of countless families.

It is a pity that Jonquils are so neglected.

To begin with, Jonquil perfume is unique ; enthusiasts know that there are degrees of merit even in that, though, for the scent of the double deep golds is richer than that of the older ordinary yellows, and the late Rugulosus, called an Improved Double Campernelle, smells like a common of golden gorse in July.

Then there are the rush-leaved little Jonquils, slender, with small star flowers, yet tall, that blossom in clusters. Jonquilla is the best, perhaps, but Odorus Campernelle must not be omitted from any good border of Narcissi. These can be cultivated in pots or bowls, too, and mildly forced, but no Narcissus should be subjected to more than 55 to 65 of heat : the earliness, so precious, is obtained more simply by placing the bulbs in soil or fibre, early, as already described. They can be fed, like Hyacinths, with weak liquid manure when flowers appear. The double varieties of the golden Jonquils are equally easy to cultivate.

Cyclamen-flowered Daffodils, known also as Angels' Tears, are little gems mostly fit only for growing in pots, cold frames or semi-shady rockeries. The type plant is Narcissus Triandrus albus. Some peat in the soil is advisable. It should be planted from June to October, 3 inches deep, and about 7 inches apart, there to remain until seen to be deteriorating, which will not occur until the third or fourth year. A mulch of dry cow-manure and leaf-mould should be put round the plants each July. They are charming, set five bulbs in a six-inch pot, but must be grown in cold frames or unheated conservatories. I find the best treatment is to sink the pots up to the rims in a shady cinder-bed, that can be shielded from excessive rain, as soon as the flowers fade, and return them to frames or glasshouses, in July.

There are now hybrids one, Queen of Spain, discovered in Spain, others produced by expert growers by crossing Narcissus Triandrus albus with various Daffodils and these may be naturalized in grass under trees, or potted, or grown in peat-fibre, in bowls. They are creamy yellow or lemon, trumpet shaped, coming in pendant clusters, and are often called Cyclamen-flowered Daffodils ; the actual Narcissus Cyclamineus is the tiny yellow Cyclamen Daffodil of Portugal.

Jjoop Petticoat Daffodils, Narcissus Bulbocodium and hybrids, grow but 6 inches high as a rule, can be cultivated like Angels' Tears, but do not need peat, and may be closer together. Of course the shady spots they inhabit must be properly drained, or the bulbs will rot and disappear. ,

The Chinese Sacred Lily is still a popular kind of Narcissus for indoor culture in bowls or tall vases of sea-shell, or sand, and water. The receptacle must be half-filled with the material, the bulb is laid on this and supported in place by a few pebbles, then water is floated on to just cover the shingle. This water has to be changed once a week, a tepid supply being given. The bowls stand anywhere in airy darkness until leaves begin, when they should be introduced by degrees to light. The great charm of the Sacred Lily is that it will blossom in about six weeks under this culture, but the bulbs exhaust themselves, so are useless afterwards.

Narcissi are propagated from offsets, of course, in which case those of the different varieties and species can be cultivated like their parents, but must not be expected to give blooms while juvenile ; or they can mostly be relegated simply to reserve plots, or border portions, neither too shady nor too sunny, too damp nor too dry, there to develop without further attention except the being kept clear from weeds.

The propagation of Narcissi from seed is a process requiring patience. As a noted bulb merchant wrote, in 1904 : ' If any lovers of these flowers wish to try to raise seedlings, let me remind them that it takes from four to seven years to get a Narcissus to bloom from seed, and a further period of two or three years before it is seen in its true character. ... If they do succeed in raising anything better than is already in commerce, and grow it on carefully for eight or ten years, they would have little or no trouble to get from 100 to 250 for the stock, or to dispose of the bulbs at 5 to 10 each.

Prices rule higher since Mr. Robert Sydenham made this calculation. After giving the fascinating note that the famous Horsfieldii Daffodil was originally found in a Lancashire weaver's garden, he added :

The best way to grow Narcissi seedlings is to sow the seeds about half an inch apart each way in small square boxes or pans, from 6 to 12 inches square and about 6 inches deep. Keep them just moist, and shaded from hot sun. They will not want shifting for the first two years, and should be placed in a cold frame the first winter or two, otherwise many, and most likely the best, will be killed by frost. After the second year they should be planted early in August, in well-prepared beds, 5 inches apart, and there remain until they flower.

All the hardy Narcissi, including Daffodils, may be naturalized in turf, or planted, and then sown between with grass seed of the fine types. Each hole for a bulb should be made of requisite depth, prodded beneath to loosen the foundation earth, and a little coarse sand thrown in on which to set the bulb. A covering in is done with good compost, free from the least recognizable manure, then the turf can be lightly relaid all but over the place where the bulb growth will first pierce.

As bulb foliage always has to yellow and die down, no mower must remove the leaves until they are ready to crumble of their own accord. Either hand shears must be used among the Narcissi, or the grass allowed to be wild for a time.