Pillar roses

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Contents 1 Growing Roses on Pillars 2 Types of Pillars for Roses 3 Pillar Roses for Growing on Pillars 4 Pruning Pillar Roses

Growing Roses on Pillars

The cultivation of roses on pillars or poles in the garden has become a very popular feature of late years. Since the introduction of the rambler and free-growing types, rosarians have discovered that these grown and trained to a wooden or iron pole here and there about the borders and lawn make a distinctly pleasing effect in the garden.

The 4 most interesting photos from Flickr for the tag 'roses'

Types of Pillars for Roses

The culture of roses in this fashion is an extremely simple business. You have only to fix a stout larch or oak pole 8ft. to 10ft. high where you propose to grow the rose, and then train the shoots as they grow to it ; or the trunk of a medium-sized conifer, divested of its side branches to within a foot or so of the stem and fixed in the ground, will do just as well.

There are special iron pillars, made with a flanged base to keep the pole firm in the soil, and with adjustable additional lengths to be obtained, which will prove more durable than wood; but whether they will prove as agreeable to the growth of the rose as those of wood remains to be seen. We know of no more delightful feature in the garden than a well-grown pillar rose, such as Dorothy Perkins, for example, when in full bloom.

Then the pillars or supports of verandahs, summer-houses, and porches afford an equal opportunity of growing the free-growing types of roses.

Pillar Roses for Growing on Pillars

Besides Dorothy Perkins, the following sorts may be grown thus : American Pillar, Blush Rambler, Paul's Carmine Pillar, Hiawatha, Reine Olga de Wurtemburg, Ards Rover, Climbing Mrs. W. J. Grant, Billiard et Barre, Paul's Scarlet Climber, and Alister Stella Gray.

Pruning Pillar Roses

At the same time, we may just briefly make a reference to the pruning of pillar roses, since upon the correct way of doing this depends their successful growth and flowering. Each summer, directly after flowering, make a practice of cutting out the shoots that have flowered, and retaining all the strong young growths. In March it then only remains to thin out weak growths and to cut off the unripened tips of the others.